I dipped into the water in this oasis in the Meseta´s arid wheatfields and the cold water sucked the breath from my body. Tucked in this valley lies one ancient spring, one makeshift pool to receive the freshwater spewing from the ground, one humble abode, a field of 50´ oak trees and one Hungarian spirit healer.
The Arroyo de San Bol is a minimally settled watering hole with unknown roots in the Castila y Leon region of Spain. The albergue is definitively the most primitive on the whole Camino - no shower, electricity, toilet or running water (apart from the spring) and three rooms. I arrived at about 4 p.m. and was the sole guest this fine night. I bathed in the spring-fed pool, washed my clothes with its natural fountain and napped beneath the tree´s shade. By lamplight, Judit prepared a fresh chicken soup and chicken risotto, along with homemade Spanish schnappes and hot wine with cinnamon. I´ve been working on being open to new experiences, and I was certainly happy to have stayed in this albergue. Judit has been working at this albergue for about three months, and will close up for the winter in one week. Book your plane tickets now!
I have now walked almost 380 kilometers, and it is time to make some tough decisions. My knee needs rest. I am not sure how much, but one extra day in Burgos was not sufficient. My strict regimen of oral ibuprofen, daily stretches, anti-inflammatory cremes, three packs of ice a day, 2 liters of water and a very slow pace is enough to keep me going - but I want to enjoy the walks more. Tomorrow I am traveling backwards, to Burgos - by bus - and resting for four-five days. This rules out reaching Finisterre by foot and makes reaching Santiago de Compostela before November 1st quite close. I have been mentally preparing to walk away from the Camino altogether if this last break does not prove sufficient.
I am one of many who suffers from tendonitis. Believe it or not - the most afflicted are young, athletic males like myself. People who are not in shape are unable to push their bodies to the point of wearing out their tendons - other factors such as poor conditioning slow them down enough. I have some regrets, such as starting a bit late during my time in Europe, and not preparing sufficiently - but I know there´s a big lessons to learn from this experience.
Should this end, I´ll definitely be back for a second, more prepared attempt. Please wish me luck!
Fede
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i hope your knee heals well and you're able to finish up the walk, but either way i suppose there's something to be learned from it. seems like you've got a good perspetive on the whole thing. good luck fede.
ReplyDeleteI really like the sincerity of your latest post. San Bol sounds amazing. The former PC volunteer in me has to ask: how's the quality of the latrines? You should think about doing a little water sanitation analysis and/or education while you're there. ;)
ReplyDeleteI'm wishing you luck. Lots of luck! Whatever happens with your knee, don't get down on yourself. You're obviously too fit for your own good. Stop with the CrossFit, get yourself some love handles, and your second attempt will surely be successful. Seriously though, take care of yourself first. Wherever you end up on Nov 1, be sure to celebrate. You've come a long way! And you'll have some mighty fine letters waiting for you in France.
Hey Federito!
ReplyDeleteGreetings from Canada. Love seeing your photos...makes me yearn for the Camino, although my feet still ache a bit. Hope you beat the tendinitis, but glad to hear you'll go on to other adventures if the pain persists. Wise. Good luck!!! Al says hi.