There's a whopping 320 of 'em, so you can view them as you wish. Here's a link to the album, or you can view the slideshow below.
They run chronologically. I've really tried to narrow it down....there was over 2,000 to start with. Often times you'll see me holding up numbers....that indicates the day of the walk I am on. Enjoy!
Tuesday, December 8, 2009
Saturday, October 31, 2009
Santiago de Compostela
On November 27th, at 3:30 p.m. I walked into Santiago de Compostela. I was blessed with an excellent sunny day, a lively city, and some bagpipe music I´ll never forget (Galicia is akin to Ireland). This means that I completed the Camino in 36 days - just a little longer than average.
Towards the Camino´s end, I was fit enough to walk one 40km day (arriving at a roadside motel at 8:30) and intentionally break away from the pack I was traveling with. I wanted to arrive alone, just as I had started, and spend the next few days watching my friends arrive. This was a most splendid plan. We´ve been having a great time the past few days because the city fits all of my criteria for excellence: beautiful city center, copious outdoor seating, good accomodations, cheap food and a huge student population.
I´ve a boatload of pictures to upload, but you will likely have to wait until around November 4th for me to get them up (just after I arrive back in the States). Check back!
Towards the Camino´s end, I was fit enough to walk one 40km day (arriving at a roadside motel at 8:30) and intentionally break away from the pack I was traveling with. I wanted to arrive alone, just as I had started, and spend the next few days watching my friends arrive. This was a most splendid plan. We´ve been having a great time the past few days because the city fits all of my criteria for excellence: beautiful city center, copious outdoor seating, good accomodations, cheap food and a huge student population.
I´ve a boatload of pictures to upload, but you will likely have to wait until around November 4th for me to get them up (just after I arrive back in the States). Check back!
Thursday, October 22, 2009
Monday, October 19, 2009
Regarding the Manner in Which We Consume, or I Consume During Physically Strenuous Days, or the Sixteen Hours I am Awake
The day began with the following:
2 Bananas
1/2 Liter of Pineapple Soy Juice
4 Slices of Austrian Brown Bread
2 Apples
2 Packets of Arroz con Leche Yogurt
1 Coffee with Milk
1 Hard Boiled Egg
1/2 Baguette (White)
1/2 Jar of Nutella
1 Kiwi
And as I walked I ate:
1 Orange
1 Apple
1 Banana
1 Powerbar
2 Liters of Water
1 Handful of Assorted Nuts
When I stopped I ate (a most delicious sandwich):
1/2 White Baguette
3 Cans of Tuna (Claro)
1 Packet of Olives
1 Can of Peppers
1 Pastry
Then relaxed with:
2 Beers
1 Pack of Mixed Nuts
After a Gregorian Chanting Vespers, ate Cocino Magarato (the cuisine of the local people), which included
1 Pig´s foot
1 Pig´s Ankle
2 Strips of Pork Fat
2 Pig´s Ears
1 Filet of Beef
1 Rooster Breast
1 Sausage
2 Cans of Chickpeas
2 Handfuls of Stewed Cabbage
1 Bowl of Fideo
1 Bowl of Natilla (cream) with Cinnamon
1/2 Flan
1 Liter of Wine
In Molinaseca now, an absolutely stunning city in the center of the state of Leon, just west of Ponferrada. I´ve become incredibly close to a fellow American named Joseph from Chicago and an awesome dreadlocked, basketball playing Austrian named Suzie, and we are really enjoying spending this Camino together. I´ve got about 200 km to go (9 days) and not looking forward to the end. I donated my ´´stone´´ to the Iron Cross at the highest point in the whole Camino (1500 km) today, and will post pictures of the process soon. Thank you Jeanne, for the almond I carried this whole walk and donated to the pile.
Things are good. Much of us have been talking about life after this experience. The majority, such as myself, are going through major transitional phases; we feel quite free to explore some new avenues. I´ve no idea how things will play out for me, but recently am leaning towards making this a travel year. International graduate schools and returning to work seem to be the other two options. In other news:
Some people say the Camino is divided into three stages;
1. The Body - St Jean Pied de Port to Burgos
The first 300 km or so, during which you experience the beginnings of the pains you will or won´t get over for the entirety of your walk. This is where my knee pains (which have subsided, or I´ve gotten used to) began. Update: I´ve began walking without a brace or creams of any sort, and you´d likely never know I had a problem if you saw me walking.
The Mind - Burgos to Astorga
As the Hungarian Spirit Healer put it: during this portion there is nothing to look out outside, so you have to look inside. A most meditative phase.
The Soul - Astorga to Santiago
Just starting this phase, but the natural surroundings have definitely been incredibly stimulating, and we´ve each settled into a rythym that works for us.
Please calculate how many calories I ate yesterday - you´ve got time!
2 Bananas
1/2 Liter of Pineapple Soy Juice
4 Slices of Austrian Brown Bread
2 Apples
2 Packets of Arroz con Leche Yogurt
1 Coffee with Milk
1 Hard Boiled Egg
1/2 Baguette (White)
1/2 Jar of Nutella
1 Kiwi
And as I walked I ate:
1 Orange
1 Apple
1 Banana
1 Powerbar
2 Liters of Water
1 Handful of Assorted Nuts
When I stopped I ate (a most delicious sandwich):
1/2 White Baguette
3 Cans of Tuna (Claro)
1 Packet of Olives
1 Can of Peppers
1 Pastry
Then relaxed with:
2 Beers
1 Pack of Mixed Nuts
After a Gregorian Chanting Vespers, ate Cocino Magarato (the cuisine of the local people), which included
 |
| From CDS 4 |
1 Pig´s foot
1 Pig´s Ankle
2 Strips of Pork Fat
2 Pig´s Ears
1 Filet of Beef
1 Rooster Breast
1 Sausage
2 Cans of Chickpeas
2 Handfuls of Stewed Cabbage
1 Bowl of Fideo
1 Bowl of Natilla (cream) with Cinnamon
1/2 Flan
1 Liter of Wine
In Molinaseca now, an absolutely stunning city in the center of the state of Leon, just west of Ponferrada. I´ve become incredibly close to a fellow American named Joseph from Chicago and an awesome dreadlocked, basketball playing Austrian named Suzie, and we are really enjoying spending this Camino together. I´ve got about 200 km to go (9 days) and not looking forward to the end. I donated my ´´stone´´ to the Iron Cross at the highest point in the whole Camino (1500 km) today, and will post pictures of the process soon. Thank you Jeanne, for the almond I carried this whole walk and donated to the pile.
Things are good. Much of us have been talking about life after this experience. The majority, such as myself, are going through major transitional phases; we feel quite free to explore some new avenues. I´ve no idea how things will play out for me, but recently am leaning towards making this a travel year. International graduate schools and returning to work seem to be the other two options. In other news:
Some people say the Camino is divided into three stages;
1. The Body - St Jean Pied de Port to Burgos
The first 300 km or so, during which you experience the beginnings of the pains you will or won´t get over for the entirety of your walk. This is where my knee pains (which have subsided, or I´ve gotten used to) began. Update: I´ve began walking without a brace or creams of any sort, and you´d likely never know I had a problem if you saw me walking.
The Mind - Burgos to Astorga
As the Hungarian Spirit Healer put it: during this portion there is nothing to look out outside, so you have to look inside. A most meditative phase.
The Soul - Astorga to Santiago
Just starting this phase, but the natural surroundings have definitely been incredibly stimulating, and we´ve each settled into a rythym that works for us.
Please calculate how many calories I ate yesterday - you´ve got time!
Tuesday, October 13, 2009
La Meseta
The middle region of the Camino is known as La Meseta - primarily the state of Castila y Leon. You could think of this area as being the belly of Spain - the majority of the wheat and corn crops are grown here. It´s not the wealthiest of regions in Spain, but I´ve found the villages to be even more precious because of this.
Many people don´t enjoy this portion of the Camino. The land is flat. There is no shade, and a good portion of the paths ride alongside major highways. There are also very long stretches without towns, such as today´s 22 km stretch.
I don´t universally love the meseta. The mornings are really breathtaking. The sky is so big and the sunrise is incredible. You can walk quite long distances since there are no mountains, and this is good for people on a schedule. The latter portions of the day can be quite sadistic, I think. The ants have their wings now, and my scarf has been crucial, as it covers everything but my eyes to keep them off. What I really enjoy about the Meseta is the feeling of being in some sort of a timeless, placeless system. I move quite a bit everyday, but there is no discernible end or beginning to the walk at this point. I am in this thing and it tells me when to wake up, where to eat, where to walk, where to drink and where to sleep. I don´t have to, or care to, worry about much else.
Some of the big highlights have been tasting patcharan (sp), a local anise spirit, eating local rabbit in Castillo de los Hermanillos and having picnics in the fields. I wish I could get some more photos up - but these computers are quite slow. No slideshow this time.
Also, I´ve passed the halfway point of the Camino!
Many people don´t enjoy this portion of the Camino. The land is flat. There is no shade, and a good portion of the paths ride alongside major highways. There are also very long stretches without towns, such as today´s 22 km stretch.
I don´t universally love the meseta. The mornings are really breathtaking. The sky is so big and the sunrise is incredible. You can walk quite long distances since there are no mountains, and this is good for people on a schedule. The latter portions of the day can be quite sadistic, I think. The ants have their wings now, and my scarf has been crucial, as it covers everything but my eyes to keep them off. What I really enjoy about the Meseta is the feeling of being in some sort of a timeless, placeless system. I move quite a bit everyday, but there is no discernible end or beginning to the walk at this point. I am in this thing and it tells me when to wake up, where to eat, where to walk, where to drink and where to sleep. I don´t have to, or care to, worry about much else.
Some of the big highlights have been tasting patcharan (sp), a local anise spirit, eating local rabbit in Castillo de los Hermanillos and having picnics in the fields. I wish I could get some more photos up - but these computers are quite slow. No slideshow this time.
Also, I´ve passed the halfway point of the Camino!
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| From camino de santiago part thre |
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| From camino de santiago part thre |
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| From camino de santiago part thre |
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| From camino de santiago part thre |
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| From camino de santiago part thre |
Friday, October 9, 2009
Boadilla
In what can only be described as pure serendipity, I befriended a chiropractor from the Canary Islands just after the last post. Guess what he is carrying with him? A machine for electroshock therapy - very useful in tendon rehabilitation! I received two treatments yesterday and wah-dee-freakin-la, I can walk pretty darn well again. I still kept the day´s regimen light - 18 km to Boadillas. I´m not going down easily! I was rewarded with an afternoon swim at the excellent albergue here. I´ve been walking with a great canadian woman named Rosalie who, despite being 61, has more spunk than any young pilgrim I´ve met yet!
Some people asked about the toilet situation at San Bol - it was not pretty. Let´s be totally honest here, ok? At 6 in the morning I could not refuse nature´s calls - the important ones. I stumbled out of my bed, sans contact lenses (mistake one), slipped into my sandals (mistake two) and walked out into the pitch black rain (mistake three) to....a field of toilet paper and human waste. Sure, there was a symbolic toilet out there with no basin (wet from the rain), but I opted to take a long, long arc around said Field of Shit (this deserves cussing). I found what seemed to be like a secluded spot, did my work, and then headed straight for the spring to vigorously wash my feet and sandals and apply one heavy coat of antibacterial cream to all exposed areas. I won´t forget that experience!
Some people asked about the toilet situation at San Bol - it was not pretty. Let´s be totally honest here, ok? At 6 in the morning I could not refuse nature´s calls - the important ones. I stumbled out of my bed, sans contact lenses (mistake one), slipped into my sandals (mistake two) and walked out into the pitch black rain (mistake three) to....a field of toilet paper and human waste. Sure, there was a symbolic toilet out there with no basin (wet from the rain), but I opted to take a long, long arc around said Field of Shit (this deserves cussing). I found what seemed to be like a secluded spot, did my work, and then headed straight for the spring to vigorously wash my feet and sandals and apply one heavy coat of antibacterial cream to all exposed areas. I won´t forget that experience!
Thursday, October 8, 2009
San Bol
I dipped into the water in this oasis in the Meseta´s arid wheatfields and the cold water sucked the breath from my body. Tucked in this valley lies one ancient spring, one makeshift pool to receive the freshwater spewing from the ground, one humble abode, a field of 50´ oak trees and one Hungarian spirit healer.
The Arroyo de San Bol is a minimally settled watering hole with unknown roots in the Castila y Leon region of Spain. The albergue is definitively the most primitive on the whole Camino - no shower, electricity, toilet or running water (apart from the spring) and three rooms. I arrived at about 4 p.m. and was the sole guest this fine night. I bathed in the spring-fed pool, washed my clothes with its natural fountain and napped beneath the tree´s shade. By lamplight, Judit prepared a fresh chicken soup and chicken risotto, along with homemade Spanish schnappes and hot wine with cinnamon. I´ve been working on being open to new experiences, and I was certainly happy to have stayed in this albergue. Judit has been working at this albergue for about three months, and will close up for the winter in one week. Book your plane tickets now!
I have now walked almost 380 kilometers, and it is time to make some tough decisions. My knee needs rest. I am not sure how much, but one extra day in Burgos was not sufficient. My strict regimen of oral ibuprofen, daily stretches, anti-inflammatory cremes, three packs of ice a day, 2 liters of water and a very slow pace is enough to keep me going - but I want to enjoy the walks more. Tomorrow I am traveling backwards, to Burgos - by bus - and resting for four-five days. This rules out reaching Finisterre by foot and makes reaching Santiago de Compostela before November 1st quite close. I have been mentally preparing to walk away from the Camino altogether if this last break does not prove sufficient.
I am one of many who suffers from tendonitis. Believe it or not - the most afflicted are young, athletic males like myself. People who are not in shape are unable to push their bodies to the point of wearing out their tendons - other factors such as poor conditioning slow them down enough. I have some regrets, such as starting a bit late during my time in Europe, and not preparing sufficiently - but I know there´s a big lessons to learn from this experience.
Should this end, I´ll definitely be back for a second, more prepared attempt. Please wish me luck!
Fede
The Arroyo de San Bol is a minimally settled watering hole with unknown roots in the Castila y Leon region of Spain. The albergue is definitively the most primitive on the whole Camino - no shower, electricity, toilet or running water (apart from the spring) and three rooms. I arrived at about 4 p.m. and was the sole guest this fine night. I bathed in the spring-fed pool, washed my clothes with its natural fountain and napped beneath the tree´s shade. By lamplight, Judit prepared a fresh chicken soup and chicken risotto, along with homemade Spanish schnappes and hot wine with cinnamon. I´ve been working on being open to new experiences, and I was certainly happy to have stayed in this albergue. Judit has been working at this albergue for about three months, and will close up for the winter in one week. Book your plane tickets now!
I have now walked almost 380 kilometers, and it is time to make some tough decisions. My knee needs rest. I am not sure how much, but one extra day in Burgos was not sufficient. My strict regimen of oral ibuprofen, daily stretches, anti-inflammatory cremes, three packs of ice a day, 2 liters of water and a very slow pace is enough to keep me going - but I want to enjoy the walks more. Tomorrow I am traveling backwards, to Burgos - by bus - and resting for four-five days. This rules out reaching Finisterre by foot and makes reaching Santiago de Compostela before November 1st quite close. I have been mentally preparing to walk away from the Camino altogether if this last break does not prove sufficient.
I am one of many who suffers from tendonitis. Believe it or not - the most afflicted are young, athletic males like myself. People who are not in shape are unable to push their bodies to the point of wearing out their tendons - other factors such as poor conditioning slow them down enough. I have some regrets, such as starting a bit late during my time in Europe, and not preparing sufficiently - but I know there´s a big lessons to learn from this experience.
Should this end, I´ll definitely be back for a second, more prepared attempt. Please wish me luck!
Fede
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